17.5pts, JancisRobinson.com

Silk, pepper and barberries. Dark raspberry. Bruised rose petal. Sylvan strawberry. Black sand. Forest floor. Heart seemingly gleaming with dark light like black onyx. Silvery tannins. A leitmotif of flavours forming the shape of a teardrop in my mouth, like a paisley pattern, whorling with complexity and rhythm. As I was trying to ‘see’ in my head this very specific shape that the wine kept drawing, I looked up ‘paisley’ and discovered that it’s an iconic symbol in the Persianate cultural sphere, called buta in Armenia! Completely coincidental, but fascinating that the haunting elegance of this stunning wine is expressed in something so culturally poignant.

• Tamlyn Currin